by Dave Bogan

This short article was taken from the December 2007 Newsletter of Bogan's Bonsai Study Group and is used with permission.

Branches create and support the outline or silhouette of a bonsai. Ramification of the branches and fine twigs is the sign of an outstanding bonsai. This outstanding bonsai with its outstanding ramification was achieved only through proper training and pruning over a long period of time.

Proper branching is so very important in achieving a fine specimen. Typically, a bonsai is designed in the typical left-right-back branch style - almost like a spiral staircase that tapers slowly to the apex. This perfect spiral is very hard to achieve and is rarely found on American bonsai. In most cases you are forced to work with what is available.

Branch placement is always critical to a tree design, but some irregularities can be overcome, especially those in the upper 1/3-1/2 of the tree. Only in the first 1/3 of the tree are they very visible and very important since you typically can see where they emerge from the trunk. In this first third, branch location and angle are very important. Picture trees in nature. Descending branches speak of age, maturity and the tree's struggles against its environment. Straight or horizontal branches have the look of a tree that is middle aged and still evolving, while descending branches are young and immature looking, as in a young tree or in the top of some pine-shaped trees

By manipulating these first few branches, you can not only show age but also move them to where they can also slightly conceal an improper location on the trunk. The location may require the branch to come forward or more of a downward angle into an area lacking these mature branches. I've seen many bonsai on which the first or primary branches did not emerge until a good third of the way up the tree, but, because they were descending, they filled in the lower areas.

Primary Branches:

The length of a primary branch in relation to the trunk is very important, and they must be balanced. The steeper the angles of the branch, the higher up the trunk it should start. The more horizontal, the lower it should start. Branch thickness is also important. A branch at the point it emerges from the trunk should be approximately 1/3 of the trunk size. In other words, if you have a 3" trunk (at point branch emerges) than the branch should be 1" thick. This should hold true all the way up the tree; and, as the trunk size decreases, so will the branch size. Example; at the point the trunk is only 1", the branch will be 1/3". The shape of the branch should also mimic the trunk's shape. On a straight or formal styled tree, the branches should be straight. On a trunk which curves, the branches should also curve and have more movement.

On branches #1, 2 & 3, the spacing between them will also have an impact on the maturity or look of the tree. In a perfect world, the spacing between branches should equal 1 ½ times the trunk area from which they emerge. This is for a mature look as well as allowing the proper amount of light to penetrate the areas. As you progress up the tree, keep trying to maintain these rules

Secondary Branches:

There are branches which emerge off of the primary branches - some call these side branches. As you progress up the tree, the point at which the secondary branches emerge or begin should also. These branches need to emerge on an alternating or herringbone pattern. Secondary branches are arranged just like the primary branches. Low on the tree, the spacing will be wider and closer to the trunk; as you progress up the tree, they will become closer together - denser. A good rule of thumb is for the secondary branches to emerge at intervals three times the thickness to the branch they're growing from. Example: a ½" thick branch would have its first side branch at 1 ½" out from the trunk. As the branch thins, the side branches get closer.

Of course, the above are rules, but we must consider them as guidelines. No tree will be perfect with branches in exactly the right locations. Simply use these to help you balance your tree. One real misconception or misused tactic is to change the diameter of a branch by allowing it to grow wild. This will work to a degree and may be your only option but please keep in mind that it will take a few years. I usually prefer to remove all branches in the lower third that do not measure up to the rules, then utilize what remains. Many times it is better to have a branch emanate from the wrong location than to have a branch 1/3 the size and never measure up. In the top areas, most trees are prolific growers. Remove all those heavy branches and allow the tree to fill back in.