by George Buehler

There is an old adage that states: The right tool makes the job easier.

After a session of trimming, pruning and wiring some bonsai, I was cleaning and putting away my tools. It occurred to me that I had been asked by several non-GLBS members what tools were needed to be a 'bonsai artist'. Thinking about that question and looking at my tool roll, I decided to put my tools in the "absolutely needed" (more on that later) and the "nice to have" category. For the new members, this should serve as a good guideline for you. As I developed this article, I added a few extra categories as you will see as you read on.

Are specific bonsai tools really 'absolutely needed' or can other tools be substituted? Later, I will list some tools that can be substituted at a cheaper price. Will they work as well as bonsai tool? The answer is no, but they can be temporarily used until you can purchase a particular bonsai tool. The tools used in bonsai have been developed over the years and are ideally suited for particular bonsai tasks.

TOOL QUALITY

There are a number of bonsai tool manufacturers around the world. The ones you see most often are of either Japanese or Chinese origins. A number of bonsai artists will purchase only Japanese made tools from one manufacturer. Others purchase what is available at the time they are needed and dependent on the amount of funds available for such purchases. You can find a tool, such as a concave cutter, for prices of $15.00 to well over $200.00. Does this mean that the $200.00 tool will last 10 to 15 times longer than the $15.00 tool? Probably not. That depends on how you handle, care for, and store the tool. If you use a concave cutter to cut roots that still contain soil, the tool will not last long no matter what the cost. In fact, in such a scenario, the more expensive stainless steel tool (since it is more brittle) may not last as long as the cheaper version.

If a web site selling tools is examined, tools are typically broken into three categories: beginner, regular and master/professional. Some sites list regular, master and professional as the three categories. No matter what they name them, most have the three categories. For this article we will call them beginner, regular and professional.

In most cases, the cheapest category tool is made of mild steel. If this type tool is handled carefully, it can last a long time. Will the edge - sharpness - of this type tool last as long as the more expensive professional tool? Probably not. However, the sharpness can be maintained for many seasons of pruning.

It is sometimes difficult to distinguish between the beginner and regular quality tools. Generally, the differences are slight. The cutting edges of the regular quality tool will meet closer. It may have a serrated handle for a firmer grip. The hinge may be tighter, and the overall appearance may be better. This quality may be plated to look like stainless steel and to help prevent rusting.

The top quality, in some people's opinion, is made of stainless steel. Although stainless will not rust, it is generally more brittle than regular steel. If it is dropped, it may suffer more damage than the regular steel tools. If this type tool is treated properly and used only for what it was designed, it will definitely last a lifetime. All conditions being equal, the cutting edge would normally last much longer than the regular steel varieties.

My suggestion is to buy the best quality tool you can afford. For those "absolutely needed" tools, stainless should be the first choice. For the "nice to have" or miscellaneous categories, purchasing the regular quality is probably the most economical. In most cases the Japanese tools are superior to those made elsewhere, so perhaps the purchase of "regular" quality name brand Japanese tools may be the best bet. Having said that, I looked at the logo stamped on several of my tools as well as the original packaging they came in, and I can't tell what brand they are - of course I don't read Japanese or Chinese. So you will have to depend on the retailer to list the country of origin.

TOOL SIZES

You will almost always find several sizes of the same tool. For instance the concave cutter can be purchased in 8, 10 and 12 inch sizes. I have also seen a 16 and 20" size. In addition, concave cutters specifically designed for trimming shohin bonsai are also available. What size you should buy is somewhat dependent on the size of the bonsai you have, what size branches will be cut off, and your personal preference. Generally speaking, the 8" size should be the first choice. If for some reason, I personally prefer a different size, I will list it and give the reasons.

ABSOLUTELY NEEDED - OR THOSE TOOLS THAT WILL MAKE THE JOB EASIER

There are several tools that I characterize as absolutely needed. By absolutely needed, I mean tools that will equip one to perform most of the necessary bonsai tasks essential to maintain a bonsai collection. A complete set of tools is not necessary for the beginner. I have listed the following tools in order of importance. If the choice needs to be made between the following five tools due to economical reasons, start with the top of the listing. Then, as your economic conditions improve, purchase the tools down the list.

• Concave Cutter - This tool is probably the most used. Its primary function is to remove branches in a manner that promotes rapid and smooth healing of the wound. When properly used, the concave cutter leaves a wound on the trunk that is taller than it is wide and slightly concave. The concave depression into the trunk allows the wound to callous over without creating an undesirable raised area on the trunk. The concave cutter can be found in 8, 10 and 12 inch versions, as well as a 6 and 7 inch shohin version. Generally, the 8 inch version is the most versatile size. This size cutter can handle limbs up to about 1" in diameter. When larger size limbs are being pruned, the portion of the blades near the heel should be used since the blade is thicker and more mechanically stable in this region. For small limbs the tip of the blade may be used. Remember though that if you try to cut a thick limb where you have to exert a lot of force, the edge of the tool may snap together with such force, that the edge of the tool is damaged. If there is only one size concave cutter available and a large branch needs to be removed, it is better to nibble away at the branch to remove small sections. It would even better to start on the branch, at the tip end, and work back toward the trunk. If you stop about 1 inch from the trunk and wait for the branch to dry out, it often is easier to finish the job and make a nice clean cut at the trunk line.
• Shears - This is the next most important tool. Non-bonsai people call these scissors. If the blade of a regular pair of scissors and a bonsai shear are compared, one can quickly see the difference between the two. The regular scissors have a flat cutting surface, while the bonsai shear has a tapered cutting edge. This allows for a clean cut without crushing the part that is being removed. The shears have finger holes to give control and typically have short blades. They normally are used for more delicate work such as removing small twigs, leaves or buds. They come in a large variety of sizes and shapes; however, they are generally segregated into categories based on their handle size or their specialized job in addition to the regular categories of beginner, intermediate and professional.
• Bonsai Wire Cutters - Bonsai are normally trained by using wire to position and shape the branches and trunks. After the tree has been set to the position the owner wants, the wire needs to be removed. The removal is done by cutting (rather than unwrapping) the wire. Since the wire is very close to the branch or trunk, only the tip of the cutter is used to sever the wire. If a hardware store wire cutter (which has a relatively long blade compared to a bonsai wire cutter) is used, more physical strength has to be used to sever the wire. Since the blade of the bonsai wire cutter is very short, less physical strength is needed to sever the wire. Typical size is 7 and 8". Bonsai wire cutters come in several sizes, with the smaller size looking more like a pair of scissors (it has a pair of finger holes), which would be only for very fine wire. When removing wire, care has to be used to not sever the branch as the wire is cut, even with a bonsai wire cutter. Although I don't recommend it, it is possible to use some types of hardware store wire cutters.
• Knob Cutters - Knob cutters are used less frequently than either concave cutters or bonsai shears. However, this type tool is a valuable addition since its shape with rounded blades allows an aggressive bite into the wood. Any stubs left while trimming can be easily removed with the knob cutter, leaving a small indentation in the trunk which heals over very quickly.
• Chopsticks - Chopsticks are an extremely useful tool that can be picked up free at the local Chinese or Japanese restaurant. They are used for settling soil and working soil in between the roots during transplanting, as well as determining how dry the bonsai soil is prior to watering.

CARE

Before we close part one, we need to briefly discuss care of bonsai tools - more detailed information will be given in part 3 of this series. As mentioned earlier, if bonsai tools are well cared for and not mistreated, they will last a very long time - even the beginner category. There are several don'ts when it comes to bonsai tools:

• Don't use a tool on several trees without disinfecting it between trees. This will be discussed later.
• Don't drop them if at all possible.
• Don't try to cut tap roots or any roots without first cleaning out all the old soil. Cutting a rock in the soil will at least dull the blade, if not nick it.
• Don't try to cut branches larger than the opening of the cutter in one cut. Rather, nibble away at the branch, making cuts in-line with the limb. Work around the circumference of the limb until the limb can be cut off without using a lot of force.
• Don't twist the tool when making a cut, especially on a large limb, as this may loosen the pivot joint of the tool.
• Don't use concave, knob or any other branch cutter to cut wire.
• Don't leave tools in a wet environment - they will rust. After use, dry them off with a soft cloth. If rust is seen on a tool, read part three of this series to find out how to clean it off.
• Don't put the tools away without cleaning and oiling them. Turpentine, mineral spirits, and sometimes, plain soap and water are useful in cleaning the tools. Spread a few drops of oil on the tool, and wipe with a rag to leave a thin film on the tools.
• Don't throw the cleaned tools loose in a drawer or tool box. Store them in a tool pouch or put them back in their original purchase container.

Next month we will list the other tools that are nice to have as, well as some miscellaneous items that are handy to have in your bonsai tool kit.