by George Buehler

GLBS CALENDAR
We have presented the complete 2008 GLBS calendar on page 2. There is something for everybody in this year's calendar. Mark the dates down and plan to attend as many meetings as possible. John and the rest of the board have spent a lot of time putting this schedule together to offer a variety of programs for various skills levels. There will be more details on the meetings in each newsletter. I have also included some other important bonsai events.

BONSAI 2008 A NATIONAL EXHIBITION
On October 11-12, 2008 there will be the first American national bonsai exhibition. It will be held at the Monroe Community Hospital in Rochester, NY. There will be over 100 fine quality bonsai from across the country. They will judged at the end of the exhibition. Of course there will be a vendor area and there will be two demonstrations during the two day event. This event is being held in conjunction with the 30th anniversary of Bonsai International.\

In Japan, there is the Kokufu-ten, an eight day national exhibit of bonsai from small shohin-size trees to large specimens. This exhibit began in 1934 and has run continuously - except during World War II. There are hundred of trees exhibited at this event and it has become the Mecca for exhibition of specimen trees.

For the last several years, a European exhibit called the Ginkgo Award has been held. This exhibit is for European trees, and this year 292 bonsai were exhibited. This exhibit was started to have a stage for European bonsai artist to exhibit their trees.

However, not many of us can afford to fly to Japan or Europe to attend either of these exhibits. Now we have the opportunity for an American exhibition with the scheduled National Exhibition.

I get sort of sad at this time of year but also somewhat glad. The bonsai season is coming to an end which makes me sad, but the bonsai season is coming to an end which makes me glad. That sounds strange, I know. However, when I put my trees to bed for the winter, I know that I will have more time to read the stack of journals I have not been able to get to, I will have time to do research on future articles, and I will have time to get my other tasks caught up. On the other hand, I will miss examining my trees or doing that needed trimming or wiring. So it is a time of sadness and gladness for me. Perhaps it is the same for you!

Before you put your trees to bed, make sure you prepare them for winter. Your tropsicals should be in their winter storage by now. The deciduous and evergreens are still waiting. For the deciduous, make sure they have lost all their leaves, and then clean up the soil of all dead leaves, and other debris. I always spray the trunk and limbs with a strong stream of water to make sure there are no critters left on them trying to make a home. The evergreens are handled in the same way, but more attention has to be given to spraying the foliage. I won't bury them until probably the end of November, depending on the weather.

John has given me a short article on the 2011 ABS seminar which is printed on page 1. The club will need plenty of help from all its members (and spouse) to make this a success. With the combination ABS/BCI format, we will have a number of international artists attending, demonstrating, and teaching which will make this event a great experience for Louisville. However, it will also mean that we will have to go that 'extra mile' to show the bonsai community the Louisville hospitality we are famous for. Call John and volunteer for one of the committees.

It seems strange thinking about Christmas now, but it won't be long before it is here. Have you made up your list for Santa Claus yet? Perhaps it is time to start thinking about the things you need and start leaving notes for your significant other (or, as we call it, my "house general"). Go through your tools and see what you need. How about that bonsai book you really wanted to read? For those of you into Azaleas, there is "Satsuki Azaleas" by Robert Callahan ($39.95) - an extensive treatise on growing and caring for Azaleas, as well as a very through description of what appears to be thousands of various Azalea cultivars. There is also Bonsai Today's Master series on Junipers or Pines (either $29.95). Each of these books covers a number of styling techniques along with a plethora of information on each species. All three are available on the ABS web site (http://www.absbonsai.org/books/bookservice.html)

How about a bonsai calendar? The ABS is offering a really nice one featuring 13 North American specimen trees. The calendar is printed on 100 pound gloss paper which shows up each tree. And in addition, there is plenty of space to mark down the important dates you need to keep track of. This is also available on the ABS web site.

by John Callaway

The American Bonsai Society (ABS) and Bonsai Clubs International (BCI) have agreed to allow the Greater Louisville Bonsai Society to host a joint ABS/BCI Learning Seminar in Louisville, June 2011. This will take a lot of planning and organization to make a successful seminar.

In June 2007, the ABS Learning Seminar was held in Virginia Beach. This installment of the ABS Learning Seminar was dubbed "Bonsai on the Beach", as it was hosted in a resort hotel literally on the beach. Along those same lines we will be taking suggestions for naming of the ABS/BCI 2011 seminar in Louisville. Please have submissions in by Monday, February 18th 2008.

We are still very much in the planning stages for the seminar. Below you will find a proposed list of committees. If you have any experience with a specific field or any interest in helping with a particular group, please let us know. We will start forming these committees in the next few months. Regular meetings will be scheduled to help through the planning stages.

Proposed Committees

• Publicity/Advertising
• Registration/Hospitality
• Facilities/Security
• Vendors
• Auction/Raffle
• Exhibition
• Teachers

by Steve Moore

I found this article on the MABA website (http://www.maba2008.org/) and find that Steve is stating the same things I have writing several times. This article is reprinted here with permission of the author.

Much is said and written on the topic of overwintering bonsai: different forms of protection, what to do with half-hardy and tropical trees, and so on. All this is important and necessary, and I hope all my readers are ready to give their trees proper care over the coming winter. But a thought occurred to me: what about the human involved? What about the bonsai artist whose trees may all be tucked away, out of reach for several months? What can he or she do to put the winter to good use? This is an especially pertinent question for those who don't grow tropicals.

Actually, there are a number of things that can be done to make winter more than just an empty gap between fall and spring. Let me offer some suggestions that I hope you will find profitable.

STUDY Winter is a very good time for studying. One bonsai artist I know chooses not to grow tropicals just so she'll have the winter free for study! Is there a technique you want to understand, a design principle that isn't clear yet, some species that you'd like to try but about which you want to know more first? There are a number of good resources available to those who want to learn.

1. Books. Good bonsai books are available in many bookstores, especially the larger ones; your club library may have some good titles; and both the American Bonsai Society and Bonsai Clubs International offer book services to their members. One suggestion: don't limit yourself to books strictly on bonsai. A good book on trees, for example, could give you a better grasp of the shapes and growth habits you want your bonsai to reflect; a book on botany-for-gardeners can be very helpful in keeping your trees alive and healthy.
2. Periodicals. A good bonsai magazine can, over time, be just as useful as a good book. Magazine articles often go into more depth and detail on a particular subject than a page in a book can. Four English-language bonsai magazines are well worth the money, in my judgment:
   • BONSAI: Journal of the American Bonsai Society;
   • Bonsai Today;
   • International Bonsai;
   • Bonsai Magazine, from Bonsai Clubs International.
   Of these, the one I personally find most useful and informative is the ABS Journal.
3. Your own club's publications. Many clubs offer newsletters, essays (like this one), plant-care guides, and other materials. These are all intended to advance the members' understanding and knowledge of the art of bonsai. One advantage of studying an in-house publication is that if you have a question, it's easy to ask the author!
4. The Internet and the World Wide Web. There are some excellent bonsai resources now available on-line. You can consult species-care guides, view pictures of fine trees, and join discussion groups and a lot more. Here are the URL's for five good sites; most of these offer links to other bonsai-related sites, as well.
   • American Bonsai Society: http://www.absbonsai.org/
   • Bonsai Clubs International: http://www.bonsai-bci.com/
   • Mid-America Bonsai Alliance (MABA): http://www.wwnet.com/~scott13/maba.html
   • Internet Bonsai Club: http://users.nbn.net/~herrfam/
   • The Bonsaiweb: http://www.bonsaiweb.com/

TAKE PICTURES

1. Take pictures of your trees before you put them into winter quarters. Wait until deciduous trees have shed their leaves: the branch structure will be revealed. Take pictures from a number of different angles. I suggest using both color and black-and-white film, since certain features will show up better on one than on the other. Once you get the pictures back, study them, and as you do, ask yourself some questions. What do I want this tree to look like in five years? What can I do to bring that about? Do I see flaws in this bonsai? If so, what can I do about them? If the tree isn't yet styled, look for the best possible style and shape for that tree; if it is, look for ways to improve and enhance the design. Let your imagination play with different shapes, different possibilities. Take your time; you've got all winter!
2. Take pictures of trees in the landscape. Again, when a tree is leafless, its structure is revealed, so winter is a good time to do this. As you drive around, keep your eyes open for trees that catch your eye, trees that you find interesting and appealing. When you find one, go back with your camera and shoot some pictures. Again, I suggest shooting from several different angles, and using both color and B&W film. These photos will serve as models on which you can base the designs of your bonsai. Studying trees, and pictures of trees, will have another benefit: it will improve your feel for their natural appearance and growth habits.

MAINTENANCE

1. Maintain your records. Winter is a good time to update your records or to set up a record-keeping system if you don't yet have one. If you're setting up a records system, let me urge you - strongly! - to choose one with which you are comfortable: you'll be a lot more likely to use it!
2. Maintain your equipment. Now is the time to clean any tools that still need it; sharpen what needs to be sharpened or have it done; replace any tools that are worn out or broken. Clean and oil your pots. Replenish your supplies of wire, soil or soil ingredients, cut paste, and other necessities.

I hope you find these suggestions useful. When spring comes, I hope your tools will be ready, your plans will be ready, and most important, you'll be ready. Meanwhile, I hope these ideas will keep you from going frantic from bonsai-deprivation, and trying to prune and wire your spouse's fingers!

(Adapted from the November, 1999 "Stuff from Steve," a regular column in the Warsaw Bonsai Club newsletter.)

by Randy Davis

A while back, I asked our members what they would like to see in this newsletter. Mike Schmidt replied (actually the only reply) that he would like to see something written on the native North American trees used as bonsai. I have been thinking about this and realized that none of my bonsai collection were native trees. I searched the literature and the internet and could not find much information. There is some information on the bald cypress, and one can assume that the information on species such as the Chinese persimmon can be related to the American persimmon. I didn't want to present information that I couldn't verify.

Recently, I was reading the October issue of the Nashville Bonsai Society newsletter and Randy Davis presented the following table on native material that can be found in Sourtheastern US and used as bonsai. He lists the general guidelines that can be applied for pruning, wiring, and the appropriate time of year for collection. For those who don't know Randy, he is a horticulturist who made a living as a landscape designer in western Kentucky and operated Lynnwood Gardens in Boaz KY which had thousands of hard to find pre bonsai trees. He also has an outstanding personal collection of bonsai. Unfortunately for us, Randy had a medical condition that caused him to give up maintaining Lynnwood Gardens as a bonsai supplier. However, he continues to be active in both the Nashville and the Evansville clubs and periodically writes articles for those clubs.

For those of you who want to collect native material, this table will serve as a good starting point in normal upkeep - ED.

by George Buehler

Sharp tools are an absolute necessity when cutting or trimming bonsai. Sharp tools will give you clean cuts that are smooth edged so that they will heal over properly. If a cut is not smooth, the cambium will try to heal over but will not be able to do a good job. If the cut does not heal over all the way, the part of the heart wood left exposed will rot. Remember the smaller the cut, the quicker the wound will heal.

If bonsai tools are used properly, the cutting surfaces will last for years without the need for sharpening (grinding an edge). Concave cutters and knob cutters have a fairly complex blade geometry which makes proper sharpening beyond the scope of this article. You can 'touch up' the edge of your tools if you do it on a routine basis. If you wait for the tool to get completely dull, this method will not work or it will be much harder. If the tool is dulled by abuse such as cutting wire with a concave cutter, it may be better to simply purchase a new tool. Professional sharpening, if you can find a sharpening shop to do it, will be expensive. They may charge more to sharpen the tool than the cost of a new one. If you purchased stainless tools, then by all means look for a local sharpening shop that will work on them. For straight edge blades, like a shear, professional sharpening shops will generally quickly sharpen the tool.

Another problem with bonsai tools is that they generally are riveted together, making sharpening more difficult. In addition to the complex geometry of some of the tools, the straight blade tools, like shears, are short-bladed which makes getting a sharpening stone over the entire cutting length almost impossible.

My technique for touching up the edge of my tools starts with a set of diamond pocket stones. This is a real misnomer, since they are similar to a fingernail file. However they are made of plastic, and one side is coated with diamond grit. They come in coarse, medium, fine, and extra fine grades. They are manufactured to sharpen the edge of woodworking tools, and, as such, they can remove a lot of metal quickly - especially the coarse stone. A set of these costs about $20. They are about 3/4 inch wide, which makes them fairly easy to maninuplate around the smaller tools' cutting edge. If you need to purchase a set of stones, remember that when it comes to diamond stones, the higher the price, generally the better the quality of the stone. If the tools are touched up routinely, the fine and extra fine stones are sufficient. I recently found a set of what are called 'water stones' in a woodworking catalog. They are about 1/2 inch by 3/4 inch by 4 inches long. They come in a grit size about 2 to 3 times finer than the extra fine diamond stone above. Using these stones would give your tools a 'surgical' edge. However, they are expensive, with one costing about $20.

Since the straight blades are the easiest to touch up, you should start with one of these first. Open the blade to its fullest extent - remembering that even though the tool may be dull for cutting a branch, it probably is still sharp enough to cut skin. Then, using a black magic marker, color the cutting edges of the tool - this is the beveled portion of the blade. Using the fine stone, hold the stone firmly to the blade, making sure that the stone is flat on the cutting edge angle. Make one or two passes from the pivot end to the tip of the blade holding the pocket stone firmly, but not with a great amount of pressure, against the blade. Look closely at the edge of the blade. If the stone is held at the correct angle, most, if not all, of the magic marker ink should be removed. If an irregular pattern of the coloration is removed, the stone is not being held at the correct angle, and more attention should be given to holding it flat against the blade. Make sure each blade receives the same number of 'strokes'.

Some people believe that they should touch up the back side of their shears - the flat portion of the blade. This is not generally recommended. If too much of the back side is taken off, the contact between the two blade halves will be reduced and the cutting ability will also be reduced. I find that touching up only the beveled edge is more than sufficient.

For concave cutters, the procedure is much more complicated. Describing the method to use is harder than the actual sharpening. Remember that the tool is only being touched up, not really sharpened.

First look at how the blades close. They should just meet with the amount of closing being controlled by the "stop pin". This pin, which is in one handle, bumps up to and stops the other handle when the tool is closed. When the one handle just meets the stop pin, the blades should "just barely" touch. If the blades touch each other before the one handle meets the stop pin, the pin will have to be nudged over so that the moveable handle meets the pin before the blades touch. Lay the tool on a solid surface, and with a "small" hammer, gently tap the pin toward the opposite side. Tap the pin only once and check the closing. If the blades touch before the handle hits the pin, repeat the tapping until the handle hits the pin just as the blade touches. If the handle hits the pin before the blades close, either the pin has to be tapped the opposite way or the pin can be touched up. This is done by using the coarse diamond stone and grinding a little off the mating surface. I have only had to do this adjustment once. That was because the tool was dropped, and apparently the pin was slightly bent.

Now for the sharpening: hold the concave cutter with the blade CLOSED. Look at the tool carefully and notice that one of the blade halves just slightly (about one millimeter) overlaps the other. Then carefully running an index finger over the mating surfaces, the slight overlap can be felt. The blade that crosses over is called the upper blade, and the one underneath is called the under blade. Remember, this crossing over is very, very slight.

Once again, mark both of the edges with a magic marker. The technique used is to ensure the diamond stone follows the outside contour of the blades. Open the cutter to its widest opening with the under blade away from you but the cutting edge facing you. Hold the fine diamond stone so that it will follow the blade opening. Check that the stone meets the blade uniformly, and then stroke the blade with the stone from one side of the blade to the other. Look at the magic marker ink left on the blade. Most if not all of the ink should be removed. Make four or five strokes across the blade. If you are concerned about not holding the stone in the correct position, remark the blade with the magic marker after each stroke.

Now close the cutter and hold the tool so that the upper blade is toward you with the cutting edge away from you. Keep the tool closed. Hold the diamond stone on the upper blade and push it away from you and, going from one side of the cutter to the other, make four or five strokes.

After I wrote the above, I followed the instructions and noticed that one of my concave cutters had a second bevel on it - a very thin angle where the blades met. This required running the diamond stone over this angle a couple of times.

If you 'touch up' your tools routinely, they will make a very clean cut. Shears and concave cutters may need to be touched up once a month or even once a week depending on the amount of use. Unless you are extremely skilled at sharpening, you should not try to use an electric sharpening machine on your bonsai tools. They can be quickly ruined by taking too much off a blade. However, the use of the manual diamond stones can lengthen the life of those favorite pair of shears you use and give a very clean cut.

by John Callaway

I would like to thank Midge Goeth and Earl Cormney for taking the time to put together two great slide presentations. Earl showed pictures of his trip to Longwood Gardens. Midge put together a great slide presentation of her trip to the Indianapolis club show last year.

The Indianapolis Bonsai Club puts together a great show at the White River Garden Conservatory, located next to the Indianapolis Zoo. This year they will have their trees on display from September 22nd until November 11th. For more information you can check out their website, http://www.indybonsai.org or contact the White River Garden Conservatory by calling (317) 630-2001.

The Greater Louisville Bonsai Society Fall Colors show will once again be held at Green Tree Mall. The display will be setup in the center of the mall where we expect to get plenty of traffi c. There are always quite a few curious observers with plenty of questions. This is our chance to inform people about bonsai and about our club. If you haven't attended this event in the past, be sure to make a point to attend this year. We can always use more volunteers to work the tables to help answer questions or pass out literature. If you would like to show a tree in this show, be sure to contact Gene Sewell at (502) 635-7704. We will also be having a Beginner Workshop on Oct. 23rd at the Bon Air Library. Participants and volunteers may sign up at the Green Tree show.

If you are planning on displaying a tree, be sure to take the time to properly prepare for the show. Soil should be clean and free of weeds and other debris. If you like, you can place a fi ne layer of top dressing on the soil. Foliage should be healthy. If your tree has started to display fall color, be sure that any already fallen leaves have been removed from the pot. The pot itself should be cleaned prior to the show. You might use a mild soapy solution to clean the pot and may consider using a light oil coating on unglazed containers. Any wire on the tree should be neat and uniform, so as not to distract the viewer. A proper display stand should be chosen to accent the tree.

Next month we will be including the calendar of events for 2008. We have listed some of the events on page two to whet your curiosity. There are some really great programs planned for next year. Be sure to update your calendars and try your best to make as many of these events as you can.

Directions to Green Tree Mall: From I-65 take exit 4 (Lewis & Clark Parkway) and turn West. Go to Signal 4, turn right and you are in the parking lot!