President's Corner

December 1, 2004 20:10

by Earl Ekman

Our annual Christmas Party will be on Saturday, Dec. 4th at the King Buffet (Oriental Food), 1801 Priority Way, Tel. (502) 266-8886. We will have a private room and we will start at 6 PM until 9 PM. The meal is buffet style and all you can eat. There will be plum wine available for those who want a glass or two. As always, there will be door prizes, games, good fellowship, review of the coming year and election of offices. I have talked to all the officers and they have all agreed to serve an additional year.

I would like to thank George Buehler for this terrific newsletter he has created. If you get a chance, be sure to express your appreciation to George. I know he would also like an article if you have a little time.

Again this year, Linda Kossmann held the pottery workshop and we have more fun every year. She works hard for the club and we all owe her a big thanks. I woul like to thank Earl Cormney as vice president and all his help. Tom McCurry keeps track of our finances as treasurer and helps with many other things. John Callaway has taken over as secretary and webmaster of our web site. Gene Sewell manages our shows and I gues we should designate him our showmaster. Midge Goeth writes her article “More Than Just TOFU” every month and does our promotions. Lee Squires conducts workshops and provides help in many different ways. Charlie Johnson keeps track of our books and videos. Amberly Stitzel created name tags and keeps track of them at each meeting. I would like to thank all of you for making this a great year for our club. I know I can count on all of you to make this coming year even better.

Due to the efforts of Anne Schweitzer and her husband who owns K-S trucking, they were able to bring in 100 bags of lava rock for bonsai soil. Many experts feel this is the best bonsai soil mined in the USA. The cost to club members will be $3.50 per 18 pound bag. If you want to order material, call Tom McCurry, Earl Cormney or myself. I think you will love this material.

Thanks for a wonderful year.


DIRECTIONS TO KING BUFFET

Take I-64 East past the Watterson to the Blankenbaker Road exit (Exit 17). Turn right onto Blankenbaker going south. At the first red light turn right onto Bluegrass Pkwy. The first street on the left is Priority Way and King Buffet is on the corner of Bluegrass Pkwy and Priority.

This is across the street from the old Sam’s Warehouse. If you get lost, King’s telephone number is 266-8886. The festivities will start at 6 pm and the dress is casual. Hope to see you there.

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From the Editor

December 1, 2004 20:09

by George Buehler

The presidential elections are finally over and we don't have to hear any more political advertisements (at least for a while). Thanksgiving is also over and it is time for the left-over turkey. While you are recuperating from overeating, it is a good idea to start thinking about what you need to do for your bonsai this spring. It is never too early to start your list and get your supplies together. Don't forget to have plenty of soil on hand, and a spare pot or two, just in case you break one or the tree you were going to put into it doesn't fit.

In 2005, we hope to have some new features in the newsletter. We will also have some "guest" writers with interesting articles.

I hope you have made out your Christmas bonsai wish list and that you get all the trees and supplies you want. I also want to wish all of you a happy holiday season.

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More Than Just Tofu - Water Features

December 1, 2004 20:08

by Midge Goeth 

This month we are going to talk about water in your garden. I have a small pond in my small back yard and it truly is the area that all visitors are immediately drawn to when entering the yard. My first water feature was a small 300 gallon pre-formed pond, and in one years time, I knew it was too small. I really liked the idea of water, fish, and plants, but wanted a bit more area to create a mood and look to accompany the bonsai. I now have about 750 gallons with a gentle waterfall that creates just the right sense of movement and tranquility.

I will be using several different references for this article and each one stresses the importance of detailed planning before you embark on a water feature for your yard. There are many more excellent books, web sites, retail operations, etc. to help you plan than when I started. So my experience involves lots of trial, and lots of error. I can tell you all the mistakes I made. And I can also tell you that they were all worth the effort. I LOVE my pond.

It is not surprising that in an island country with abundant rainfall, water figures prominently in Japanese gardens. Although they have long been common in the Orient, they are becoming very popular in the United States. The soothing, visual beauty of a pond is enhanced by aquatic plants, the ever-changing view of fish swimming among these plants, and the play of light and shadows reflected in the water. A simple stone water basin can capture the magic of water as surely as a waterfall with stream and pond can, and much more simply. A dry-water feature makes the viewer feel the living presence of water that does not actually exist in the garden.

WATERFALLS

A waterfall is nearly always the focal point of its garden, and no wonder. It marks a dramatic shift in topography. Usually it feeds a widening stream or pond that from down-stream viewing points leads the eye to the waterfall itself, always in motion. Soothing water sounds cancel out noises beyond the garden and enhance the illusion of remoteness. You can emulate the particular charm of the natural waterfall by varying the seasonal volume of water, thereby reinforcing the mood of the season.

STREAM

Even when they link a waterfall or simulated spring with a pond rather than function by themselves in the garden, streams have a particular vitality. In their connection to the rest of the surrounding landscape -- topography, plantings, stones, bridges -- they unify the garden and recreate in it a basic, lively natural landscape feature. In a spacious garden, even one without a waterfall or pond, the effect of a meadow crossed by a broad, shallow stream can be pleasing and natural. More often in a residential garden, however, a narrow and more winding stream may harmonize with a landscape that includes representations of hill or mountains.

PONDS

The most imposing feature of a stroll or a hill-and-pond garden is usually the pond. Nestling low in the landscape, the pond anchors the garden and its surface mirrors the sky and catches the wind. The rest of the garden is designed around it. The openness of a well-designed pond strikes a balance with trees, stones, structures, and landforms. Soil from the excavation may become a mound in the garden.

If a tiny garden cannot accommodate a pond, a water basin or a small pool can still reflect the sky and refresh visitors. Any garden can have a dry-water feature that suggests a pond as effectively, perhaps, as does water itself.

DRY FEATURES

The design of every water feature described so far applies equally well to its dry counterpart that only suggests the presence of water. Dry waterfall, ponds, and streams, if they are well designed, have much the same aesthetic function and emotional impact as the water features that they resemble.

Once installed in full-sized gardens, there are, aside from the absence of water, only subtle differences between dry features and the corresponding wet features. There is a significiant difference in the construction -- for a dry feature, less earth must be moved and nothing needs to be waterproofed -- and maintenance, which is easier and far less expensisve. An aesthetic difference, perhaps the only one that deserves comment, applies to ponds. A very large dry pond with its lack of movement or reflection and its monotonous expanse can easily seem glaring and unrefreshing; if you plan to make a dry pond, keep its scale modest (but not miniature).

If you have been thinking about a pond in your yard, here are some very basic considerations. Do you want a pond with or without fish? Do you want to include plants in your pond? How much time will you devote to maintenance? Have you checked your local ordinances? Why? Some cities (Lexington, for instance) state that any water source greater than 2 feet deep is considered a swimming pool and must have a fence surrounding it. This may be fine for small water sources like bird baths, but one section of a water garden must be at least 3 feet deep if you wish to over winter some species of fish and plants. Do you want to create your own design and use a liner or do you want to install a pre-fabricated pond?

Pond location can be critical, not only in regard to your enjoyment but in regard to the maintenance and biological performance of the pond. The following guidelines should be followed when planning and selecting a site for the water garden.

The site must receive a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight each day. Sunlight is needed for photosynthesis by pond plants including algae, which provide oxygen to the pond. Abundant oxygen means a healthy environment for fish and other organisms. One exception is a small container garden with less than 100 gallons of water. It will do best with 1 to 2 hours of shade during the hottest part of the day.

Avoid any area that receives runoff that could contaminate the pond with fertilizer, herbicides, or insecticides. These will quickly kill plant and animals. The site should be level.

Do not place the pond under trees or under large overhanging branches. Ponds should not be located directly under trees, as their roots hamper excavation and eventually cause structural damage to the pond. Also, leaves can foul the water and over-hanging branches may exude toxic substances into the pond.

Do not locate the pond above utility services. If you plan to excavate, check with utility companies on the location of underground gas, water, sewer, and electrical lines before moving one shovel of soil.

So, if you place a water feature in your garden, be it small or large, formal, informal, or oriental in design, you will be rewarded with its overall effect, particularly as it relates to the enhancement of your bonsai.

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Bonsai: A Way of Looking at Trees with Different Eyes

December 1, 2004 20:06

by Ogden Tanner

This article appeared in the “Smithsonian Magazine” in 1990. A number of our members have visited the National Arboretum and hopefully this summer I will be able to visit it also - ED

Behind the walls of the Minnesota Correctional Facility at Stillwater, Tom Chappell and 17 other members of the prison's bonsai club spend a couple of hours each night working on their collection of tiny, picturesquely twisted trees.

"It gets your mind off other things," says Chappell, who is serving 15 years to life for second-degree murder. His prize juniper, which he trained for two years, won a blue ribbon at the Minnesota State Fair last year; with the help of other ribbons earned by fellow inmates, the club swept the competition in the novice class. "Most of these guys are lifers with a history of big trouble," observes Sgt. Mike Hermerding of the prison staff. "But we've had surprisingly few problems since they got involved in bonsai."

When he isn't performing surgery at Columbia Presbyterian Medical Center in New York City, orthopedist David Andrews can usually be found operating on his own collection of bonsai in Alpine, New Jersey. "I spend all day making crooked limbs straight, and all night making straight ones crooked," he quips. "Practicing bonsai has given me a certain amount of balance."

North of Memphis, retired Air Force Maj. Gen. Billy Smith and his wife, Robbieanna, maintain 150 little trees in shallow trays: some they have acquired in their present form, but many others they have trained themselves, including a beautifully branching native buttonwood they think may be 300 years old. Smith originally became intrigued when he was flying back and forth to Japan on active duty 20 years ago and saw his first bonsai in a Tokyo department store. "There's something about bonsai, like flying, that's very quiet and peaceful," he says. "I've never tired of doing either."

A little tray-planted tree

Prisoners and professionals, retirees and housewives, more and more Americans have become fascinated by the ancient art of bonsai (pronounced "bone-sigh"), a Japanese word that means "tray planting."

Just how many Americans are bonsai buffs is anyone's guess, though they certainly number in the tens of thousands. There are upwards of a hundred organized bonsai clubs around the country - some 70 in California alone - and perhaps as many as a thousand small groups of individuals who meet informally at one another's homes. The movement is gaining international momentum as well. The first World Bonsai Convention was held last April in Japan, drawing 1,600 enthusiasts from 32 countries, including the United States, West Germany, Australia, India, Argentina and Peru.

Bonsai, admittedly, is not for everyone. Though a well-cared-for miniature tree is as healthy as - and often longer-lived than its larger forest brethren, some people are slow to get over the notion that all that twisting, wiring and pruning must constitute a form of torture, vaguely akin to the old Oriental custom of binding women's feet to make them small. Not a few people unfamiliar with the art are apt to regard the more contorted specimens as simply weird, even a bit grotesque.

"When you see bonsai for the first time, you either fall in love with it instantly or you don't; there's no middle way." says Chase Rosade, who studied bonsai in Japan, and teaches it to both beginners and experts at the Rosade Bonsai Studio in New Hope, Pennsylvania. "The people who do fall in love with it, however, find that they can escape in their imagination into a natural world in miniature. For a moment, a foot-high tree resembles a wind-tormented pine high on a mountain; a mound of moss becomes a green meadow; a group of seedlings evokes an entire forest."

In Japan, where religion teaches a reverence for nature, age and ancestors, bonsai is a highly respected art form, symbolizing the struggle of a tree against the forces of nature, growing in character as it grows older, much as a human being does. Moreover, in common with other Japanese artworks, such as scroll paintings and gardens, a good bonsai is not explicit down to the last detail; it is spare, abstract, impressionistic, inviting the observer to meditate, to project himself into the scene, to complete and interpret it in his own mind. In many Japanese homes, a favorite specimen is often brought indoors temporarily and placed in a tokonoma, a ceremonial alcove where it can be contemplated at leisure, perhaps with a decorative poetic scroll hanging behind it, and a small companion plant or other object completing the composition off to one side. The man of the house comes home after a frazzling day at the office and sits in front of this world in microcosm for five or ten minutes before dinner. "That's his martini," observes David Andrews. "He can imagine himself climbing a beautiful mountain, or walking quietly in the woods."

Though many women are attracted to bonsai in America, it seems to have its greatest allure for men who, according to suppliers of bonsai plants and materials, constitute the vast majority of their clients. This tradition, too, stems partly from Japan, where virtually all practitioners are male (and where ikebana, the art of flower arranging, is almost exclusively a female pursuit).

Not a few devotees talk about their plants as if they were children or pets, members of the family. One reason is the constant attention they need: growing in unnatural conditions in shallow containers, plants usually require daily watering and inspection, often a little pruning here and there, as well as occasional fertilizing, root trimming, and periodic repotting to keep them healthy and within bounds. Unlike watercolors or model airplanes, bonsai is not a hobby one can drop readily to go off on a trip. For those who can't persuade someone to baby-sit their plants, a number of bonsai nurseries around the country offer vacationing owners "boarding and grooming" services, much as kennels do for owners of prize poodles.

The challenge is not one that stops once you've put down your tools and stand back to admire the result. Unlike a sculpture or painting, a bonsai continues to grow, changing with the seasons and the years. Buds develop, shoots lengthen. In some species, flowers open, fruit appears, foliage turns color in fall. When the leaves drop, the architecture of a deciduous tree like a maple or beech is dramatically exposed, becoming an object of wonder in itself. "Once you're hooked on bonsai, you start looking at trees in the landscape with different eyes," says Robbieanna Smith. "You realize how much more beautiful a tree like a sycamore can become in winter, when the leaves aren't covering it and you can appreciate the trunk lines, the branches, the texture and colors of the bark. I find I have to buy an awful lot of right front tires, because when I drive along the street every day I see things that would make wonderful bonsai and I run right into the curb."

In Japan, bonsai are family heirlooms

Underlying the appeal for many converts is the mystery of working with something that is so small, so beautiful, so often old, yet so very much alive. While some bonsai in Japan, lovingly passed on from father to son as family heirlooms, are thought to have been living for 500 years or more, the question to a true believer is not so much the actual age of a plant as how old it looks. "It takes at least three generations to make a really good bonsai," says Johnny Chang, who displays a dozen or so of his 140 specimens in his Chinese restaurant in Greenwich, Connecticut, for diners to admire. Other practitioners find that they can achieve a feeling of age and dignity in a plant in as few as five or ten years. In any case, patience counts.

To create a bonsai out of a young nursery plant, an expert like Chase Rosade first looks for a tree trunk that is somewhat thicker at the base and tapering toward the top, a strong root system all around, and an interesting natural "movement" to the trunk and branches. The best time to shape a plant is in early spring, when it is vigorous and starting to put out new growth. Because the plant may be so full of sap that it is actually brittle, Rosade doesn't water it for a day or two, allowing it to become less turgid and thus less likely to snap if bent.

When he is ready to go to work, Rosade uses special bonsai scissors and pruning pincers to remove excess foliage and branches. He begins at the bottom, working upward so that roughly the lower third of the trunk is revealed. If the tree lends itself to the common "curved-trunk" style, he leaves one major branch to the right (or left); a second, shorter branch above the first, protruding to the other side; a smaller third branch above the second, pointing toward the back of the tree to give a feeling of depth. He avoids branches pointing awkwardly at the viewer except for the smallest ones at the top. "You want to open up the foliage so you can appreciate the structure of the tree - as the Japanese put it, to make 'spaces for the birds to fly through,' " he says.

On each main branch, Rosade shapes the foliage into a triangular or teardrop shape, thicker toward the trunk and tapering toward the tip; he also snips off shoots that point straight up or down, in order to achieve a flatter, layered look.

A rigidly straight trunk or a branch that angles upward may have to be wired into more pleasing lines characteristic of an older tree. Wiring, a temporary measure akin to putting braces on teeth, is done with soft copper or aluminum wire. Starting from the base, Rosade wraps the wire in a series of 45-degree turns toward the tip. After wiring, he gently bends the wood with both hands into the desired position, which the bent wire should hold until the wood takes on the new position permanently. On a particularly resistant limb, he may attach a guy wire to the trunk or pot to pull it into place.

Rosade then chooses a shallow bonsai tray with a depth of one to two times the diameter of the trunk at its base, and a length of about two-thirds the height of the tree. He covers the tray's drainage holes with small squares of nylon screening, then runs a wire down through one hole and up through another, leaving enough wire so that it can be tied over the root ball to hold the plant in place.

To bring the root system into balance with the much-reduced foliage, he removes as much as two-thirds of the soil and roots from the bottom, snipping off the heaviest roots so they will fit the limited space. He places the tree in the tray - usually off-center to balance its asymmetrical mass - on a layer of gravelly, quick-draining soil, then ties the wires over the root ball and fills in with finer soil.

The finished bonsai is then soaked for about ten minutes in a tray of water to which a commercial root stimulant containing vitamin B1 is added. To allow the tree to recover from its operation, it is set in a protected spot out of the sun and wind for a week, then gradually moved into full sun, where it will have to be watered an average of once a day. After a month, Rosade starts feeding his new bonsai a balanced liquid fertilizer in solution, applying it every two weeks until mid-October, when the plant slows down for a winter rest and will not require feeding until the following spring. At about the same time, when the training wires have had time to do their job, he removes them before they get embedded in the growing bark.

When freezing weather becomes likely, Rosade places the new bonsai (along with all the others in his considerable collection) in an enclosed, unheated area where it will remain cool and dormant, yet protected from severe temperatures and drying winter winds.

To maintain at a height of four feet or less a tree that would ordinarily grow to 50-100 feet may require creativity and patience, but it does not involve torture, horticulturists are quick to point out; plants have no central nervous system and thus cannot sense pain. Nor is it a question of starvation, which would soon sicken and kill the plant. A well-cared-for bonsai, in fact, gets ample water and nutrients (and is protected from the vicissitudes of nature, including insects and disease) with the result that it usually lives much longer than its cousins in the wild.

The main thing that keeps a bonsai small is careful pruning: reducing the total amount of its leaves and roots so that it simply cannot manufacture enough food to become any larger. Terminal buds at the tops of branches are constantly cut or pinched off, stimulating the plant to redirect energy to lower buds; these form shorter, lateral shoots and smaller leaves that give the plant a compact, bushier look. To keep top and bottom growth in healthy balance, a plant is periodically removed from its pot. Long thick roots are trimmed back, encouraging the growth of fine new feeder roots, and the plant is repotted in fresh soil.

Though its history is not precisely documented, the idea behind bonsai seems to have originated not in Japan but during the Han dynasty in China some 2,000 years ago, when artists began to fashion miniature landscapes in trays, and to grow flowers and small trees in pots. Buddhist monks brought examples of bonsai with them to Japan in the 12th century, believing that they were sacred objects ("verdant stairways to Heaven") that expressed a connection between God and mankind. At first the sole property of the samurai aristocracy, the notion gradually spread to the middle classes, becoming a widely accepted art form by the 1800s. It was first introduced in the West at an exposition in Paris in 1878, and later at an exhibition in London in 1909, where the curious little trees created a sensation.

Bonsai made its first appearance in the United States early in this century when Lars Anderson, Ambassador to Japan, brought home an impressive collection that was eventually donated to the Arnold Arboretum in Boston; along with others, his trees can still be seen there. Actual training of trees in this country, however, was confined to a handful of Japanese-Americans living on the West Coast. The real flowering of popular interest dates only from the years following World War II, when American servicemen who had been stationed in Japan brought back their discovery of bonsai.

Most bonsai today are based on five main styles codified by the Japanese-formal upright, curved trunk (the most common), slanting, cascade and what is called "literati," with a slender trunk and fewer branches, as well as variations with windswept or twisted trunks, trees grown in or over rocks, and multi-stemmed and group "forest" plantings, totaling more than 30 versions in all. While the majority of standard bonsai trees are from one to four feet tall, many enthusiasts also try their hand at shohin, a kind of mini bonsai using plants six inches high or less; or shito, featuring specimens that are barely three inches high, planted in pots not much bigger than a thimble, with a teaspoon of soil. While such dollhouse editions carry miniaturization to a fascinating extreme, they are even more demanding; they must be watered faithfully (as often as five or six times a day)and are often fertilized with a hypodermic syringe.

Growing in popularity, too, is another variant of bonsai called saikei, or "living landscape," which combines plants, rocks, mosses, tiny ferns, grasses and sand or fine gravel to create entire seashore, woodland or mountain scenes in realistic miniature. Finally, there is the allied art of suiseki, or "viewing stones," which uses no plants at all; it consists solely of individual rocks collected for their evocative shapes and patterns, and displayed as art objects in themselves.

In judging a bonsai, a connoisseur looks first for overall artistic effect. Paramount is a choice of style appropriate to the nature of the tree-one doesn't try to force an upright-growing redwood into a drooping cascade form, which is better suited to an old, gnarled pine clinging to a rocky mountainside. "A bonsai should never be trained into a shape that does not naturally become its species," says Yuji Yoshimura of Westchester County, New York, one of the first Japanese masters to teach bonsai to Americans, in the 1950s. "It should remain a forest tree, seen through the wrong end of a telescope."

While a presentable bonsai can be made out of an ordinary juniper bought for $5 at the neighborhood nursery (a favorite practice plant for beginners) outstanding older specimens shaped by skilled artists can command impressive prices, ranging up to $2,000 and occasionally as high as $25,000 (a fine container can be worth many thousands by itself). In Japan, where leading executives like the chairman of Honda Limited dabble in bonsai, much as wealthy Americans do in art or race horses, it is not unusual for an ancient tree of exceptional artistry to go for the equivalent of $200,000-300,000, and some have fetched more than $1 million. To protect such an investment, a wise collector generally leaves its care and feeding to a professional bonsai trainer, and has his prize delivered from the nursery only on special occasions so it can be admired by guests at his corporate headquarters or his home.

While Japanese styles and species remain classic standards for bonsai, in recent years a more Americanized version of the art has begun to emerge. Traditionally, bonsai makes use of temperate region plants native to the latitudes of Japan, particularly slow growing, long lived ones like junipers and pines, as well as deciduous ones like Japanese maples, gingkos and zelkovas. Almost all must be grown outdoors; they are brought inside to be enjoyed for only a day or two at a time (a fact that novices learn the hard way when they try to keep a new prize inside permanently, on a coffee table in a room with too much heat and not enough light).

Americans, with well heated homes and an affinity for houseplants, are increasingly broadening the field by using subtropical and tropical species that not only have their own distinctive appeal but thrive indoors in winter in the North. Species lending themselves to such use range from figs and English ivy to gardenias, camellias, bougainvilleas, acacias and bamboos, though care must be taken to provide particular species with the temperature, humidity and light levels they require.

Americans tend to be freer and more experimental in the way they style and train plants, using distinctive, native North American species, like Florida button-wood and California juniper (so beautifully twisted by nature that they draw raves from bonsai masters in Japan) as well as others with special character, such as ponderosa pine, redwood, bald cypress, American hornbeam and larch.

The finest of such trees are usually collected in the wild. Already old and well-shaped by the elements, a prize trophy often has the potential of becoming "instant bonsai," one that can be brought home and transformed into a masterpiece in a lot less time than a generation or two.

For a true aficionado, collecting can be the headiest aspect of the art, pursued with all the zeal of a big game hunter stalking his prey. Some of the best American larches, lovely trees with delicate tufts of needles, come from bogs in Nova Scotia or Michigan, where they are naturally dwarfed by acidic growing conditions and lack of nutrients. Still other sources include old fields or abandoned orchards, where cows have browsed on seedling trees (apples, crab-apples, junipers, beeches, elms) constantly pruning them over the years, so that one can find specimens that have gnarled trunks a foot in diameter but are only three feet high. More mundane for the alert collector are nurseries about to throw out imperfect or overgrown stock, which can be cut back and reshaped.

The prudent collector, of course, doesn't just go traipsing onto someone's property to help himself, but gets the owner's permission first. In the case of public property, such as a National Forest or areas administered by the Bureau of Land Management, permission is required by law and must be obtained from the local district office; a fee of $3-5 per tree is usually charged. Off-limits to collectors are National Parks and National Monuments, where no vegetation or wildlife can be removed except in special cases involving scientific research.

Among the most prized of Native American species are the twisted pines and junipers found growing in the mountains of the West. There is no more avid collector of them than Dan Robinson, who is also one of America's leading proponents of "freestyle" bonsai, which follows the artist's own rules rather than the classic Japanese ones.

Robinson, a boyish, well-muscled man of 50, with curly hair and a ready smile, alternates 24 hours on duty at the Bremerton Fire Department in Washington State (he often brings a bonsai to the firehouse to work on between alarms) with 48 hours off, which gives him ample time for his own landscape design business and a personal collection of more than 400 bonsai at his rustic lakeside home.

In search of stunted trees

On a recent tree-hunting expedition to the Front Range of the Rockies Robinson (who had been careful to get permission) and two longtime collecting companions (Larry Jacket, a high school physical education teacher from Denver and Felix Laughlin, a Washington, D.C lawyer) bumped over dirt roads in Robinson's pickup, scanning the foothills for outcroppings with crevices in which stunted pines and junipers are apt to grow. Each time they spotted a likely site; the excited hunters piled out of the truck and clambered after their quarry with crowbar, sledge, saw and long-handled pruning shears, along with a small hydraulic jack to wedge the rocks apart.

Digging, prying, severing unwanted roots and branches, they were able to get an easy specimen out of its stronghold in half an hour or so (harder ones took up to half a day) wrapping the roots in burlap to prevent drying and lugging their prize back to the truck and its trailer. If a particularly handsome tree proved difficult to move without endangering it, they excavated the part of the roots they could reach, and wrapped them in sphagnum moss and black plastic to encourage further growth. Then they noted the spot so they could return next year to cut the tree loose safely from its still buried roots and bring it out. The expedition was fruitful: after nine days, the pickup and trailer had been crammed with multiple loads for each collector, including 40 specimens that Robinson hauled home to Washington.

Robinson, who is considered somewhat of a maverick by conventiona bonsai fans (and on the leading edge of the art by others here and in Japan) creates compositions that reveal a deep respect for the nature of trees and are distinguished by an extraordinary sculptural energy. "Bonsai should be fun," he says. "I'd rather do a 'Wow!' bonsai, an American kind of bonsai, than a safe one that reverently follows Oriental traditions." He puts primary emphasis on the trunk of a tree, particularly the deadwood valued by many bonsai artists, which he often carves and hollows out. To create new foliage on the deadwood, Robinson implants a juniper whip in a groove cut along the length of the trunk, burying the juniper roots in the soil. When working with a live bark strip of a trunk, he simply grafts new growth directly onto the live part. One of his trees, a 160-year-old ponderosa pine, stands in a place of honor at the National Arboretum in Washington, D.C. He calls the tree, which has a stout but whimsically graceful look, "Jackie Gleason Dancing."

Also at the arboretum are the many trees of the National Bonsai and Penjing Museum, which has become a Mecca for bonsai lovers in the United States. The main display, reached through a charming Japanese garden, is of 53 outstanding bonsai presented by the Nippon Bonsai Association of Japan to the American people for the U.S. Bicentennial in 1976. At the entrance to the exhibition stands a 190-year-old Japanese red pine (click here) donated by the Imperial Household; at the end is the granddaddy of the collection, a Japanese white pine more than 350 years old (click here), given by a family that had passed it down through many generations. (When its donor was invited to visit his gift in its new home, notes curator Bob Drechsler, he stood before it for a long time with tears in his eyes.) Nearby are 31 Penjing, Chinese versions of bonsai, donated by Yee-sun Wu, a Hong Kong businessman. To complete the picture and update the history of the art, the National Bonsai Foundation is raising funds from private donors toward a new American pavilion, which will display selections from a hundred outstanding bonsai contributed by North American artists. Reflecting the current diversity in styles and philosophies, the collection will eventually include a wide range of specimens that have a distinctly American look. Construction will soon be under way, with an opening date targeted for fall of next year.

Already on display is the centerpiece of the American collection, given by its creator, John Yoshio Naka of Los Angeles, after whom the new pavilion will be named. A commanding, four-foot high forest planting of bonsai trees Naka started creating 25 years ago; it is named Goshin (Guardian of the Spirit). "Alice and I have 11 grandchildren; Goshin has 11 trees," he observes with a smile.

Naka, born in Colorado and educated in Japan before going into the landscaping business on the West Coast after World War II, has probably done more than any other person to spread the understanding of bonsai throughout America and the rest of the world. A small, gentle man of innate modesty, he continues to travel tirelessly at the age of 75, giving lessons to novices and experts alike.

"What I like about bonsai is that it has a beginning but no end," says Naka. "A bud today becomes a branch tomorrow. It is like searching for the rainbow's end; the farther it is pursued, the farther away it is. There are no borders in bonsai. The dove of peace flies to palace as to humble house, to young as old, to rich or poor. So does the spirit of bonsai."

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Ficus - Strong Versus Normal Growth

December 1, 2004 20:05

by Dave Bogan

Dave has been the editor of the Greater Evansville Bonsai Society for about 10 years. He has been actively pursuing the art of bonsai for about 16 years. He has over 300 trees in his collection. He states he is an avid believer in bending the rules in bonsai and continues to experiment with different techniques to improve his bonsai. - ED

Ficus are my favorite and the most abundant species in my bonsai collection. Having been attracted to ficus many years ago, they now total over 50 trees comprised of 7 different species. Yes, nerrifolia are by far the majority but, most Ficus can be treated the same. Most bonsai enthusiast have at least one. I, as well as most enthusiasts, have read the books which tell us to treat them as a typical tropical bonsai. After growing Ficus for well over 10 years, I have come to the realization that they are different than most tropicals, a little unusual in their growth pattern and have several species specific issues when it comes to good growth. In past years, I followed the books and would repot a nerrifolia after one or two year's growth. I was amazed at the root growth or maybe I should say lack of root growth. So, I started to experiment and talk to other ficus lovers. Here are a few issues you may want to consider if growing ficus.

Sun & Temperature:

Ficus love all the sun you can give them. I mean ALL day direct sun. None of this "protect them from the hot afternoon sun" as with other species. Sure, they will get by with lower light or cool temperatures but for rapid and good growth, they must have all the light and heat you can give them. If you watch them in early spring, they show little if any growth until the day temperatures stay above at least 75 and the nights are above 60. I would venture to say in our area, a ficus's growing season is only about 90 days. If you give them less than full sun, their strong growth season will be even less. To give you an idea how heat increases growth, I experimented with a couple of my nerrifolia this fall. Setting on their benches in early Sept., their growth had almost stopped or at least slowing down considerably from the past months. I moved them into the greenhouse. At this time of the year, my greenhouse was reaching a day temperature of 100 - 105 and nights above 70. I'm happy to say these ficus responded with strong new growth. Remember tropicals in their native areas are used to extreme heat and more direct sunlight. Stop and think, have you ever laid on the beach in Florida? You will tan but probably burn a lot quicker than here in the Midwest due to the more direct sun light.

Soil:

It took me a while to agree, but after several test trees, I found my ficus grew a lot better in fast draining soil. I now use a large particle mix and do not include any humus or other additives.

Water:

A huge but confusing factor here in the Midwest. When I first started with ficus, I felt they needed a lot of moisture in the soil - wrong. I'm now a firm believer that ficus are almost a succulent type plant. They hold a tremendous amount of moisture in their roots, trunks and branches. As mentioned above, I now use a fast draining soil mix which will not retain a lot of moisture and I allow my trees to dry out between waterings.

Here’s the rub - Ficus can be very finicky. All of us have seen them defoliate at the drop of a hat. This is all due to not liking fluctuations in light, temperature or moisture. The real key here is to avoid the fluctuations. Probably the hardest one to maintain a delicate balance with, is the moisture content. As mentioned, I allow my trees to become slightly dry before watering. In reality here in the Midwest, there is probably 24 and 48 hours between a slightly dry soil and the time that they start to lose moisture content inside their structure. It's when they start to lose internal moisture that they will drop leaves. This is a natural reaction. Leaves transpire moisture, and the plant will drop some to maintain a moisture balance. Even after this period, ficus will generally go a long time before they actually die. They can live off their internal moisture reserves for a long time. Yes, they will probably shut down all growth and eventually drop all their leaves, but this takes a while. How many times have you heard someone say a ficus was dead but, after scratching the bark you found live green tissue? They may look bad, but they're still alive.

Root Growth - Try this experiment using two similar size, age and condition trees:

Tree #1 - Transplant in late June. Use a standard soil mix (typical deciduous mix). Trim roots. Make note of the quantity, size and length of the root system. Water daily (keep moist) and fertilize the same as all your other trees.

Tree #2 - Transplant in late June. Use a heavy grit fast draining soil mix. Trim roots as in tree #1 and again make note of the root system. Water only when it appears dry but, fertilize as usual.

Now, wait 2 years. Remove both trees from their pots (late June), and wash off all the old soil. Inspect the root systems. You will probably note that tree #1's root system has not changed drastically. There may be a few long roots but no real ramification, and many of the roots cut previously are still stubs with no growth. Now tree #2. I will almost guarantee you will have 2 - 3 times the root growth plus better upper growth.

Many times, we are fooled by ficus growth. I have had trees (after repotting) grow great. Very nice upper growth, even to the extent I was pruning them every week or so. But come repotting, they have exhibited very little new root growth. Confusing??

Ultimately, ficus don't require a huge root system and can live with very few roots, thus their ease of transplanting and their longevity. I firmly believe ficus can absorb moisture and nutrients no matter how large their root system is. I have seen ficus totally root bound in nursery containers, root bound to the point that they actually burst the container. These plants were setting out in direct sun and were growing fine. In fact, I purchased just such a tree. This tree was over 6' tall in a 10 gallon nursery container. It was totally root bound and bursting the pot, but it had a decent amount of foliage and looked to be very healthy. Upon getting it home and inspecting the root system, I found hardly any small roots. All the roots had grown large and most where fused together, to the point that I doubt if there was more than 1 gallon of soil in the entire 10 gallon container. With this lack of soil, I'm still amazed how the tree stayed alive let alone grew. A little worried, I simply potted it up into an even lager container (15 gallon) with large grit soil surrounding the existing root system. After allowing it to grow only one year, I pulled it out. I was very happy to see that in the area of the new large grit soil I had numerous small roots forming. Since it was now in very good health and condition, I decided to repot it (July). Using a large saw, I proceeded to cut off over 90% of its lower root mass - to a depth of only 3" and potted it in a large container with fast draining large grit soil. The top was cut back severely to only 7 bare stubs resulting in a new height of about 14". In the first year, the growth was fantastic and created a full canopy. The growth was so full you could not see any of the inner structure or cut areas. In January, while in the greenhouse, I thinned it out completely-down to the branches I wanted to maintain (click here). By June, it was totally full again. Amazing growth. With all its abundant growth, I again transplanted it in early October. Yes, I said October - in the greenhouse which was still reaching 90 - 100 degrees during the day and 70 at night. The root system was expanding very well and it had very lush & abundant top growth. After a slight root & top trimming (trimmings filled a 2 gallon pail) , a new pot and fresh soil, it now is doing great in the greenhouse - pushing new growth in Nov. with out a single leaf dropping.

To further my theory, I firmly believe ficus will tolerate and grow in about any condition but, if we want additional strong growth and size, we must change our ways. If in moist heavy moisture retentive soil, it will obtain what it needs to grow, but roots will not form as well. I firmly believe the plant doesn't send out roots because it has what it needs. With the fast draining soil, it is fooled into searching for nutrients and thus sends out a multitude of roots.

If we study ficus in the tropics, they grow very quickly and send out a multitude of searching roots. These roots have been known to grow hundreds of feet searching and encompassing everything they grow over. I have also been told in S. Florida, if wired, the wire must be removed in only 1 or 2 weeks or it will be February after hard pruning and thinning severely damaged and scared. So, if you want growth close to what practitioners obtain in the tropics, you need to adjust how you treat them here in the Midwest.

If you want a nice tree, I definitely recommend you consider a ficus - if you can maintain it properly. In the case of the large nerrifolia tree I mentioned here in this article, it was grown from a cutting 10 - 12 years in a nursery container. Can you name me any other trees which can be grown to a trunk base area of over 16" x 6'+ tall, then be severely pruned, potted and be a nice tree within 3 or 4 years? I have a collected elm in my collection which I've been training for well over 10 years. Sure, it looks nice but, considering the time difference, there is no way it could have matched a ficus at 3 - 4 years into training.

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President's Corner

November 1, 2004 20:04

by Earl Ekman

On Nov 9th at the Bon Air Library, we will be having a video and food extravaganza. Please bring any interesting bonsai videos you have and if you have a video or DVD player bring it along so we can watch several different sets at one time. I have a video I made in April at Dan Robinsons’ Elandan Garden. I know we have a number of club videos featuring various artists. We are asking each family to bring a small dessert of some kind. The club will furnish the utensils, plates, napkins and drings. This should be a great evening of bonsai. Also, I will have some of the pots we fired at the pit firing.

This year we will have the Christmas party at the King Buffet, 1801 Priority Way, Tel. (502) 266- 8886. We will have a private room that seats approximately 50 people - and the ability to expand if more people attend. The room has been reserved from Saturday December 4th from 6 PM till close. It will be a lot like last year, only a different location. For those who get there early, there will be drinks and door prizes. You will receive mo r e informa t i on (including directions) regarding the party in next months newsletter.

I want to thank all those who helped make the bonsai pot firing such a great success. Linda Kossmann worked all day firing the pit and it was hard, hot work. Thanks Linda! In addition, I want to thank Tom McCurry for styling a Scotts Pine and building stone tops for bonsai stands, Earl Cormney for the die grinding demo, Lee Hatcher for the Bald Cypress discussion, John Callaway and Amberly Stitzel for their Phoenix Graft Demo, George Buehler for his shohin discussion and Charlie Johnson for cooking the hot dogs and brats. Mostly I want to thank my wife Sandy for all her hard work helping me put it all together.

Gene Sewell, you did another great job of putting together the Green Tree Mall Show. I also want to thank those who brought trees for the show. Gene signed up 14 or 15 people for a beginner workshop, and he sold enough raffle chances on a raffle tree to make a nice profit for the club.

This has been a fun year and the club continues to grow. I can hardly wait for next year.

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