By Randy Davis

Botanical Name – Ulmus rubra
Common Name – Slippery or red Elm

Description
Native to – Eastern United States from Quebec to northern Florida and west to the Dakotas and Texas. Botanical Information – Tree to 60 feet with spreading branches forming a broad flat-topped head. The leaves are oblong and very unequal at the base where the leaf connects to the petiole. Leaves are doubly serrate, of firm texture and very rough above and pubescent beneath 4-7” long. Flowers are red, form dense clusters close to the branch and appear in early spring along with the ripening seed. A reddish brown pubescence of the bud-scale is very conspicuous in the spring as the buds are unfolding from which it gets its common name of "Red Elm".

Scientific Name: Euonymus alatus compactus
Common Name: Dwarf Burning Bush

Euonymus or Spindle tree is a genus of approximately 175 species of deciduous, semi-evergreen and evergreen shrubs, trees and climbers found growing mainly in Asia. The Euonymus alatus is called Burning bush or winged spindle tree for the broad, corky wings that adorn its branches.

The Dwarf burning bush (Euonymus alatus compactus) lacks this 'feature' and is therefore better suited for bonsai. In addition, its branching is finer and its leaves are smaller.

Burning bush is a popular garden plant because of its intense red foliage color in fall. While Japanese maples will produce good fall color even when grown in a good deal of shade, Burning bush needs full sun exposure for best results. I find this plant likes a good supply of moisture during spring and summer, and I therefore grow mine in fairly deep pots.

I started growing Burning bush as bonsai in 1992, and since then have had only one recurring problem: branch dieback just as the new growth begins to elongate in spring. However, this dieback usually does not affect the whole branch, but only the fresh elongation. Another drawback in bonsai culture is the plant's habit of producing only one shoot elongation per growing season. When a branch is pruned, the new buds produced in the leaf axils will not open until the next spring, making the development of ramification a slow process.

Among its strong points, other than fall color, are:

• Hardiness in zones 4 to 9 (average minimum temperature from 93F to 32F)
• Beautiful bark even in young plants
• Adaptability to life in a container
• Buds back well on old wood
• Naturally small leaves that reduce even more in bonsai culture
• Bright orange 'berries' in fall and winter

Branches have to be wired very carefully, because the fat buds are only attached very loosely and can easily be knocked off.

All in all, I think Dwarf burning bush makes a very good subject for bonsai and deserves to be grown more frequently.

This report on the tree of the month was taken from the Potomac Bonsai Association "Clippings" - Newsletter. Volume 35, Number 9 September 2006. It is used with permission - ED.

Scientific Name: Carpinus caroliniana
Common Name: American hornbeam

The American hornbeam, also called Blue beech, Water beech, or Ironwood, is actually a member of the beech family. Related species commonly used for bonsai include the Japanese loose-flowered hornbeam (C.laxiflora), the European hornbeam (C.betula) and the Korean hornbeam (C.coreana) or (C.turkzaninowii).

The hornbeam is an under-story tree, living in the shade of others in the forest. It will grow with an attractive open habit in total shade, but will have dense growth in full sun. The muscle-like bark is smooth, gray, and fluted. Its leaves are similar to the beech, but are narrower and more distinctly veined. They grow alternately on the shoot, in almost all directions. The buds are also shorter than those of the beech. Fall color is faintly orange to yellow before falling early. Brown leaves occasionally hang on the tree into winter.

Hornbeams are easily collected because they do not root deeply in the rich forest soil. When collecting, leave as much soil as you can on the root ball. Incorporate some of the collected soil into your growth medium to continue the cycle of mycorrhiza.

• Potting information: Publications differ as to the depth of containers for hornbeam bonsai. My personal belief is that the depth does not matter if you use a soil rich in humus and the bonsai is never allowed to dry out. Containers can be glazed or unglazed, depending on fall color. If the tree is richly colored, a glazed container will work.
• Light requirements: Hornbeams can be grown in full sun if they are potted in a humus-rich soil in a somewhat deep container and kept evenly moist all of the time. Hornbeams in shallow containers should be grown in partial shade in summer.
• Temperature: Fairly cold-hardy - Zones 3 through 9A.
• Watering: Increase in summer - Never let soil dry completely.
• Repotting: Young trees every 2 years; trees 5 years or more every 4 to 5 years. Use regular bonsai soil with extra humus.
• Feeding: Feed with balanced (20-20-20) half strength, every 2 weeks May-June. Do not fertilize July-August. Resume fertilization September-November (5-10-10). Do not feed for 2 months after repotting.
• Pruning: The best time for minor pruning is early spring. Prune back to the first pair of leaves on new shoots. Developmental (heavy) pruning should be done in late winter. Hornbeam is apically strong, so radical pruning may be necessary from time to time, along with conservative pruning on lower portions of the tree for balance. Defoliation may or may not work according to some writers. My experience has been good if done in early June.
• Propagation: From seed, cutting, and airlayering.
• Pest & Diseases: Relatively free from disease. Fungi cause leaf spots, but are not serious. Aphids are a problem in the spring.
• Bonsai styles: Almost any style suits the hornbeam, mainly upright styles. Sometimes a tree collected at a stream bank will lend itself to a cascading style, but that's rare. Trees should show inner structure rather than being a dense head of foliage. Pruning cuts that seal over give the trunk the appearance of age and add to its character.

Bibliography:
Brockman, C. Frank, Trees of North America,
Golden Press, 1968
Owens, Gordon, The Bonsai Identifier,
Chartwell Books, 1990
Pottberg, Clifton, Hornbeam ,PBA Newsletter's
Tree of the Month 1972, PBA, 1980
Preston, Richard J. Jr., North American
Trees, MIT Press, 1978
Zane, Thomas L. Seasonal Trees,
Rappahannock Bonsai
Society Newsletter, Summer 2006

by George Buehler

Scientific Name: Rhododendron indicum
Common Name: Satsuki Azalea

The azalea is an evergreen shrub which can reach up to six feet in height. There are hundreds of azalea cultivars (probably thousands). The Satsuki azalea which originated in Japan is the most commonly used for bonsai. It produces flowers generally in May that are white, pink, red and sometimes flowers in multiple colors on the same plant.

The ideal growing environment for bonsai azaleas would be where the plant receives 4 to 5 hours of sun and the balance of the day receives bright filtered sunlight. The plant should be protected from the hot August sun to avoid leaf scorch.

The soil should never dry out but not be soggy. A fast draining soil is recommended. Most experts recommend using a soil mix containing Kanuma to keep the plant in slightly acidic soil. Many Japanese masters grow their azaleas in 100% Kanuma.

The Satsuki azalea is a prolific bloomer, normally starting in early May. Some experts allow their trees to bloom every other year to reduce plant stress. Others remove some to most of the buds, allowing only a few to open. Either way, dead blooms should be removed as soon as possible.

Fertilization should begin immediately after blooming and new growth begins, using an acid type fertilizer like MirAcid alternated with a balanced fertilizer. Fertilization should stop during August.

Many books recommend repotting after blooming has finished. However, here in the Ohio valley, this means that transplanting would occur from late May to early June which is entirely too late. Therefore, I transplant in early spring. When an azalea is transplanted, I do not allow the plant to bloom, removing the blooms as soon as they appear. The period between repotting depends on the age and condition of the tree. Young trees should be repotted every year, while older trees should be repotted every 4 to 5 years. Azaleas form dense mats of roots. When repotting, trim the root ball and cut out pie shaped wedges around the outside of the root ball so that the roots can grow into the gaps.

Pruning falls into two categories - heavy and maintenance. Heavy pruning should be done every other year as needed immediately after blooming is finished to ensure next year's buds are not removed. Maintenance pruning can be done throughout the growing season. Azaleas readily grow new shoots from old wood. New shoots at the ends of branches grow in groups of five. These shoots should be reduced to two, and the remaining shoots should be shortened to the first set of two leaves.

Wiring can be done thorough out the growing season, but the major wiring should be done after flowering. Older branches are generally brittle, so care should be exercised when making bends. The bark on azaleas can be damaged with careless wiring, and wire wrapped with raffia may be used to protect it. Prior to wiring, water can be withheld for a day or two which makes bending the stiff branches easier.

Here in the Ohio Valley, with the early spring rains, Daconyl should be applied every two to three weeks to prevent petal blight - starting as soon as leaf buds start to open. Another problem azaleas have is lace bugs. A tell tale sign of lace bug is a graying of the leaves, especially on the underside. This insect can be controlled with Malathion, Orthene or Isotox - following package directions carefully - if a spray schedule is started early in the season.

In the fall, azaleas should receive two or three hard frosts. Then they should be stored in an unheated garage or storage shed, or in a cold frame. Do not winter them outside.

Scientific Name: Pinus thunbergii
Common Name: Japanese Black Pine

Japanese Black Pine is said to be the king of bonsai. The rough, flaky bark and dark green needles show great strength even in a small tree. A large powerful base and undulating trunk are keys to a dynamic and exciting tree.

At one time, it was common practice to starve the tree of water and fertilizer to develop smaller needles that were more in scale with the size of the tree. In recent years, new methods have been developed to create smaller needles in a much healthier tree.

The tree pictured here is about 8-10 years old. It was field grown specifically for bonsai. As a seedling movement was introduced to the trunk using wire, and branches were carefully selected and allowed to grow in the proper places. The tree was potted into a nursery can 2-3 years ago and was finally placed in its first bonsai pot this spring. It will take another year or two of work before this one can be shown, but I think you'll agree it is well on its way.

by Mike Schmidt

SCIENTIFIC NAME:Chaenomeles speciosa 'Texas Scarlet'

One of my favorite trees is this Flowering Quince. It's a great little tree to have around in late winter, because it starts blooming in late February to early March. This photo below was taken on St. Patrick's Day, 2007. The tree was purchased as nursery stock, potted in a pot from Dr. Doyle, and pruned for the first time at one of our club's "Bring Your Own Tree" Workshops on April 17, 2004. As you can see I have had the tree exactly 3 years. I hope to always keep it in that pot.

I really like the naturalness of the 'clump' style and how the 3 trunks and branches interact while maintaining the shape of a single tree. This is the first photo I have taken of this tree, and it has helped me to see some branches that need to be pruned. Funny how things show up in a photo that you don't otherwise see.

The Flowering Quince likes full sun, but may need partial shade in midsummer in really hot areas. I keep it outside during the winter with mulch over the pot and in a windbreaker box that I have contrived beside the foundation of my house. It's great to be walking along the sidewalk in the winter and see my trees' limbs sticking up through the snow with blooms on them. The Quince likes a lot of water during the summer, and likes to be repotted in the fall.

Sometimes it will throw some blooms in the summer, especially after being pruned. The trunk on a Flowering Quince is slow to thicken, and I'm sure it would help to put it in a much larger pot. But this is one of my first trees, and I am kind of sentimental about it and the pot it's in, so I think I will sacrifice trunk size and enjoy its other qualities.

I would highly recommend a Flowering Quince 'Clump' style to anyone wanting an instant cure for the winter Blahs. It's an easy to grow tree and a style that is rewarding in a relative short time. I think it might work well for anyone starting out in this addiction called Bonsai.

"Please Honey, Just one more tree. I know we have no food to eat but it does produce Quince fruit. Yeah I know but if you put a whole lot of sugar on them, they're not too bad. Thanks, you're a peacher quince ha, ha, ha.

No, I didn't mean to imply that you're bitter."

Rantings of a hopelessly lost Bonsaiist.